My mate Hamish and I just completed a four day cycle tour of
Perthshire.
Driving up in our vans along with Chrissie, we settled into
the Caravan Club site at Killin with a week to spare. Close examination of
weather forecasts showed some showery weather but led us to prepare for the off
next morning.
So, loaded up with camping gear, away we rode.
Following the back road along the south of Loch Tay proved
an easy warm up and we were soon at the reconstructed crannog near Kenmore.
Just as we finished our soup and cake lunch at the quayside
café the rain came. Undeterred, we donned waterproofs and set off towards the
stiffest climb of the trip; 4.5 miles up to the shoulder of Schiehallion. It
took us around an hour but, once we’d turned west on the road to Loch Rannoch,
we were rewarded with a restful descent
and stunning views.
Opting again for the quiet road along the south of Loch
Rannoch we found a perfect spot to camp, having covered 40 miles that day.
I was up at 6 making a refreshing coffee.
And after a lazy breakfast, we broke camp and continued on
the circuit of Loch Rannoch.
The café at Kinloch Rannoch closes on Mondays (today)
despite it being a bank holiday! So lunch was taken courtesy of the village
store and a welcome bench outside. Then away to Tummel Bridge and the only
black arrow on the OS map of our route. It was short and sweet though. The
quiet lane south of Loch Tummel yielded
up our next campsite.
We had the only rain of the day as we erected the tents
but, later, we were sunbathing, decadently shirtless.
Our route next day saw us paralleling the A9 along the
cycleway as we bypassed the heady delights of Pitlochry. This had been the day
I’d been looking forward to most. We paused to view the Dunfallandy Stone.
Returning to the Tay Valley, we crossed the river on the old
railway bridge ...
... then spun our way along the narrow lanes, before detouring into
Aberfeldy for the most delicious lunch of the trip at Habitat Café in the
centre. Their cauliflower cheese soup was unbelievably tasty. This café is
highly recommended.
The sun was out and its warming rays meant I switched to
shorts for the first time, performing a quick change in the café’s loo. We
stocked up with essential supplies (beer & whisky) at the Co-op then set
off for the glorious Glen Lyon. We stopped for a look at the Fortinghall Yew …
… and admired the timber roof of the church …
… before continuing up the magnificent glen, with frequent
stops for photos.
Eventually we arrived at the Glen Lyon Post Office tearoom.
Suitably filled, we embarked on the last few miles to our
final night’s camp.
We’d had no rain at all and enjoyed a good meal, beer, whisky and really meaningful discussion before
retiring to the soothing sound of the river.
We rose next day and reveled in bacon butties.
Our final day saw us heading off up the glen to Loch Lyon
before the inevitable climb over the pass into Glen Lochay and the final few
miles back to Killin.
We stopped for a quick look at the longhouse just before
the town.
Then, a great, slobbery welcome from my three girls back at the van.
It had been a brilliant short tour covering around 136
miles. The mixed forecast had proved to be overly pessimistic and we’d been
rained on as we rode for only 20 minutes on the first day. AND, as an added
bonus, there had been remarkably few midges!
We enjoyed a couple of days walking from Killin before our
return south to the Peak District. I’m now preparing for the possible challenge
of a circuit of Arran with Cycle Chat’s Scottish contingent in just a week’s
time. Life is good!