Highlands, May 2016 part 3

After a pleasant and relaxing coupla days in Glencoe we're on the move again, this time up north to the narrow road which runs NW along the shore of Loch Arkaig. The plan, for me an' Islay to walk from Strathan at the end, to Sourlies on the fringes of Knoydart. All good, but after piloting our modestly-sized van along the twisting road for about 4 miles, with another 10 still to go, mine and Chrissie's nerves are frayed. I give in, find a space to turn round then we park up. Out with the maps. Time for a rethink.

Soon, we're away again. We're off to Glen Affric. Traveling at a steady pace, we arrive in the Glen in good time for dinner and I repack my rucsac.

In the morning, we bid farewell to Chrissie and Pebbles and me an' my little canine pal set out on the track up the valley. It's Saturday. It's, sort of, day 2 of this year,s The Great Outdoors Challenge (TGOC) in which foolish/intrepid hikers attempt to walk right across Scotland, from a variety of staring points on the west coast. They converge, hopefully, at Montrose, in the east, a couple of weeks later. So, it was no surprise that I met many "Challengers" trekking towards us as choccy paws and I walked west. We shared many pleasantries with, mostly, Americans as we wandered along. Islay attracted most comments being younger, fitter and infinitely more beautiful than me.

After 8 miles or so, of walking in great weather and even better scenery, we arrived at Alltbeithe Youth Hostel, which must rival the SYHA's Loch Ossian site for the title of best located in the network.

Needless to say, and despite the impression in my pic, the place is buzzin'. Fully booked up for the next two nights. Ya can't take dogs in anyway so we find ourselves a nearby nook to erect our traveling home and settle down for coffee, biccies and Bonios.

We pass a peaceful, snory night and emerge to a slightly overcast sky. We breakfast in bed. Luxury.

Islay's very well behaved now as I pack the tent. She sits, obediently ... waiting.

We take the same track back, so far, then turn to follow the opposite shore of Loch Affric.

The weather's turning a little. I don waterproof jacket but it's nowt more than drizzle.

 

After a stop for lunch we're soon back at the van with our fellow travelers. Plan is for Chrissie and Pebbles to hike through Glen Affric all the way to Morvich on the west coast, But, alas, Chrissie has stubbed her toe, badly, on furniture in the van. It's bruised. She's limping. She's not hiking anywhere, today or tomorrow. So it's coffee, cake and off we go, continuing our journey. Our sights set now on Skye.

On the road down towards Cannich we see a familiar face (well, backside really). It's Alan Sloman, blogger extraordinaire, scourge of Twitter, and pal, Phil, both veterans of many TGOCs. We take pity on them with coffee and cakes and share pointless banter, before kicking them out to carry on their Challenge.

And after a sneaky overnight by a Loch en route ...

... it's not long before we're crossing the bridge to Skye.

It's gloomy but we're seeking some low key exercise. We find it, in the form of a short walking circuit from the town of Portree.

Refreshed, we head off to keep an appointment with our Twitter friends Andrea and Peter who are kindly allowing us to park by their lovely cottage near Uig. Not only that, but they ply us with dinner, wine and malt whisky. Scottish hospitality at its finest. Thanks so much you two.

The following morning we enjoy a damp walk with our hosts and their tribe (well, three) miniature Schnauzers. The dogs have a fine time. Then, we're off, in the rain, exploring some byways in the van.

We spend the afternoon and evening sheltering from rain, reading, eating and sleeping.

The next day we enjoy an amble with mining history before spending a final night on the island.

Now it's a short hop down to the Caravan Club's site at Morvich. Next day, we're meeting up with yet another Twitter pal David and Moss; the intelligent one. 

More sooner ... or later.

Highlands, May 2016 part 2

Well, I finally give up trying to post to my blog on the move. None of the available apps allow easy posting of pics from my new, shiny, android phone and I keep getting the fuppin' text centreing on the page; aaargh! So, eventually, after much cussing, I decide to leave it until I get home.

It's Friday. Me an' little choccy paws are off up the track from the western end of Loch Rannoch to meet Chrissie and Pebbles on their return from the haunted cottage. After around 3 miles we see them approaching. Spot Islay in the first pic.

The walk back's pleasant but we both have slightly sore feet from lots of hard track pounding (it was hard for most of Schiehallion too). See here for the tale of Chrissie and Pebbles' little trip.

We return to Kilvrecht campsite for another peaceful night and showers in our van. The shower in our camper is brill!

Now, Saturday,  we're in sleazy Fort William. We restock from Lidl and have lunch in the McDonald's with surely the best view in the UK (from a McDonald's, that is).

Checking the forecast I stick with my plan to backpack on Monday, through to Wednesday. My route's Spean Bridge to Kinlochleven. I'm taking 3 days, mainly out of consideration for the youth of my little lab, who's had only one night in the tent prior to this.

Back to tonight, and we park up, above the Caledonian Canal, with a fab view of Aonach Mor, Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis.

Now Sunday, we take a wander alongside the Caledonian Canal. Returning, I set to sorting my rucsac for our trip tomorrow. What with all my pup's food, bed and coat the load's massive. Good training for Arctic Sweden, where we'll carry 8 days' provisions.

It's Monday. Islay and I are off. We follow a track over the pass to the Leacach bothy.

The weather is just unbelievable. I perform a textbook river crossing, swapping my boots for mesh running shoes. Islay follows me through the knee deep water. Stopping a little way up the track to replace my boots I look down ... to see the bridge ... hidden from view at the bothy. I do manage a smile.

We carry on. Islay now riding point, out front, now behind, at my heels.

The track eventually leads us down into the valley of the Abhaihn Rath and the location of Meanach bothy. We pitch our shelter on flat, dry ground not far from the building and relax. I lounge on my Thermarest chair, drink continuous coffee and graze on snacks. Islay lies on her new Noble Camper bed and guzzles Bonios. In the sun, the afternoon is glorious.

In the morning, after the laziest of breakfasts, we're off again. Down the valley we go, towards Loch Treig, passing by Staoineag bothy, on the far bank of the river.

We follow the track east, along the shore of the loch. Then it's south-west up Gleann Iolairean, the valley of the eagles. We arrive at Loch Chiarain in afternoon sun ... again. Here, once more outside a bothy, we pitch our shelter and befriend a fellow backpacker; a Scot, well into his 70s. He's a plucky chap, travelling with no clear route. Turning this way and that as the whim takes him. I admire his carefree attitude.

For the last day of our backpack we rise ... to sun. We are blessed. Our route takes us to Blackwater reservoir then down the steep sided valley of the River Leven to Kinlochleven. Chrissie and Pebbles meet us along the way.

We're off now, on the road to the Camping & Caravanning Club's Glencoe site where we spend a couple of nights ... just chillin'.

Next stop, north for a backpack into Knoydart.

Highlands, May 2016 part 1

Ok, so first, writing this post on new phone so please excuse errors.

Leaving home on Sunday, 1st May we stop en route for lunch with my Dad in Wetherby then afternoon tea at Knipe Towers, home of the Pieman. We walk the dogs with the Pieman and Lucky the Dog then it's off for a wild van camp, somewhere on t'Northumberland moors.

Next morning we rattle up the roads, eventually arriving at the east end of Loch Rannoch, where we fall asleep.

In the morning we wake to this.

So it's Tuesday an' I'm flappin cos there's nowhere in Kinloch Rannoch to beg, steal or borrow water. Map reveals campsite 3 miles away, in the forest. Applying throttle as we take off sees van's front, driven wheels digging themselves deeply into newly laid gravel. Oh dear! Switching off traction control allows wheels to spin themselves free.. Phew! Close call.

Kilvrecht Forestry Commission campsite's a gem. Quiet. £8 a night. A temporary problem with water means boiling drinking water. Can always drink beer eh?

Now we're off on a walk through the forest. Dogs are in seventh heaven. No sheep. No people. Relaxing fun.

Wednesday is another forest bimble but we're working towards Chrissie's first backpack tomorrow. We shop at the small store in Kinloch Rannoch then we zoom off up the loch to find a wild camp spot for the night.

Now, it's Thursday, 5th May and I'm dropping Chrissie an' Pebbles at Bridge of Ericht for their backpack north to the, reputedly haunted, Ben Alder cottage on Loch Ericht.

Meanwhile, little number two adventure-dog-in-training and I are off to tackle the mighty Schiehallion.

And for the night, we find a place with an appropriate view of Schiehallion's summit.