Friday, 25 August 2017

Sarek, Arctic Sweden, August 2017, part 2

With the river crossing behind us, for the second time, we plod south under glowering skies, before pitching again in mosquito HQ.

We've settled into a routine now, this being out fourth night out. We pitch the outer together, then Chrissie wanders off to filter sufficient water for the night. I, meanwhile, hang the inner and drag both sacs inside, quickly to avoid any mossies which don't have appropriate passes (I haven't issued any). I empty the sacs, placing our gear down each side of the tent, then aim to have both XTherms inflated before Chrissie returns. We're glad of our Thermarest chair kits when holed up like this. It makes for comfortable reading and partaking of vittles.

And in the morning we make it back to the trail junction and turn north-east towards the Parte hut.

It begins to rain. The trail becomes hideously rocky again. The rocks are the rain. We decide to pitch and get out of...the rain.

It rains ALL through the night. But, by morning, it's stopped and we're off again. passing the shores of Stuor Dahta along the way.

By mid afternoon we're at Partestugan. We're greeted by the host, a lovely lady who serves us delicious strawberry juice and refuses payment.
"Courtesy of the STF," she says, with a smile.
But camping near the hut would cost us around £20 each (including use of the toilets and kitchen). Chrissie's tempted but my Yorkshireness wins through and we find a tight pitch just around the edge of the lake, Sjahttjakjavrre. We plan to stay here two nights and take a walk up to a high point on the Kungsleden, north of here, in the hope of a good view.

For the first time we have coffee and dinner outside the tent. There are still little, bitey bastards but not so many and our Mosiguard sees 'em off.

The following day we set out for our proposed day walk. Through the forest we go then up, up and out onto the saddle between Favnoajvve and Huornnasj. As we'd hoped, there are wonderful views.

Best of all we are rewarded with a super encounter with three, young, male reindeer who seem inquisitive as they wander, slowly in a complete circle around us before leaving.


So pleased to be able to see these beautiful animals relatively close.

We return to camp, elated by a wonderful day in the Swedish hills.

In the morning, we leave for the final couple of days' walk south to Kvikkjokk, with a camp along the way.

And, 9 days after leaving here, we hit the Kvikkjokk Fjallstation again.

We pitched the tent then treated ourselves to lunch in the dining room. The elkburger was was the beer!


And another fine trip into the Arctic ends. All that's left is the small matter of 6 hours on buses back to Lulea, leaving here at 05:20! But the buses are fairly comfy and we're back at the hotel in good time for a shower...bliss...and lunch in the city.

Flights home next day and it's all over...for another year.

We're already contemplating next year's visit.

Smile...and thanks for reading. Feel free to leave a comment. We're happy to receive any questions, which we'll do our best to answer.

See Chrissie's account over here.


  1. Wow, fantastic trip, awesome views and fantastic photos. Not the easiest terrain to navigate through. You have my admiration. A wonderful backpacking adventure.

    1. Yep. Looking back it's the difficulties that enhance the memories.

  2. Amazing trip. If we ever get that far north it will have been via a very long road preceeded by a ferry or two, (Mrs Wimp here refusing to get on large - or even small - metal tubes that fly .....)

    1. A few years back we took the van as far as Bergen, Norway, then into Sweden. Took 5 weeks. Bubbling away is an idea to spend 3 months on a trip up into the Arctic with the van and the pups. We'll see.

    2. {{grins}} Similar idea bubbling here, but it will not be for a long time. "Little Miss Perfect" isn't a natural car-travelling-dog so the adventure will happen once it is just two of us again. Plenty of time to plan ... add t list - make sure van is properly winterised!

  3. Yup. Enjoyed that, Sir.
    Two queries:
    1)Is there any chance you could add a quick map?
    I find bouncing between the blog and Google Maps a pain in the posterior as I'm a lazy sod.
    2) When's the best time to go to avoid the mozzies? I hate the blighters with a vengeance!
    Cheers Geoff.

    1. Ok 1. I'll see wot we can do
      and 2. Mebbe September. Earlier than August COULD see too much snow.

    2. PS we had hardly any mossies last August.

  4. Update: since being inundated with requests...well, we had one...maps have now been added.

  5. Great stuff. I was going to ask the same question about mossies and when the snow recedes. I like your pink flowery socks by the way :)

  6. The views from the top of that hill were amazing and the reindeer visit was just icing on the cake. Good to see you both hiking in a place you love. Wouldn't mind a go at one of those Elk Burgers. Another great read Geoff. ��

  7. Cheers Andy. Hope you're well. I've missed you on Twitter mate.

  8. I miss our chinwags too Geoff. I just got fed up trying to catch up with everything all the time, even though I kept followers to about 50. Being on the road all of the time doesn't give you much scope to interact on a daily basis. Never say never though. If I find a way to make a living with more humane like working hours, I'll be back in the Twitter saddle. Take care mate.


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